photo by michael persico

From the Market

Fu-Wah Mini-Market and Deli

by Mara Zepeda

Is there such thing as a perfect Philadelphia corner market? West Philly’s Fu-Wah Mini-Market and Deli (while not on the corner) comes pretty close.

Thuyen and Nhu Lai opened the small shop about 25 years ago when they emigrated from Vietnam (they are Chinese). They’ve won over diners with both Vietnam restaurant in Chinatown and the new Vietnam Café. But the market’s offerings are just as spectacular.

Fu-Wah has exotic products I’ve never even heard of, like Maeda-en lychee sherbet, blue corn taco shells, charcoal-grilled seasoned eel, chrysanthemum tea drink and black popcorn. It has ingredients that can tumble into a gourmet dinner or a week’s worth of meals, too, like San Marzano tomatoes, basil, parmesan and feta cheese, David’s kosher salt, organic eggs, coconut milk, assorted Swiss jams, banana leaves, green tea ice cream and fresh macaroons.

Dave, the couple’s son, is in charge of ordering merchandise, which he says changes with the neighborhood. “As customers walk in I ask if there are certain things they’re looking for. I can get something within a week. Usually it’s not just one person who wants something, but other people won’t speak up.”

Recent requests include plain organic yogurt and vegan options for the local anarchist community. “I’ll ask the customer to give me an empty bag or carton so I can search around for it. Customers love that we have a large selection. The neighborhood is always changing and [our neighbors] will always require new stuff.”

On a recent afternoon Tammy, Dave’s sister, works the cash register. She manages to talk to every customer who walks in. “This is your son, right? How old is he?” she asks a woman ordering sandwiches. “That’s such a cute outfit,” she remarks to the student in a violet shirtdress buying a ginger beer. The customers have taken note of the winning combination of outstanding selection and friendly service.

“I’m treated well. I love everyone who works here because they’re decent to people,” says a longtime resident picking up a pack of Camel Lights.

“It’s the best thing to happen to the neighborhood in years,” says Ellen Reynolds. “It’s so impressive how friendly they are. They saw a need and filled it. Miraculously, they always have everything I need.”

Reynolds relates the story of stopping in one day to pick up ingredients for summer rolls, which she’d never made before. She received a detailed explanation of everything she’d need, and then Thuyen even came by the store and demonstrated how to make the rolls.

Between two tiled nooks embedded in the wall, stands a shrine to the “Buddha as a landlord.”

“We burn incense there every night,” explains Tammy. “We believe in karma. We really do.”